‘“Best pizza” is an inherently controversial topic even without inviting New Yorkers, Chicagoans, New Havenites, or other folks with nostalgia-tinged regional biases to the discussion. But for lovers of the thin-crusted Neapolitan style, the pizza margherita served at Gran Gusto (90 Sherman Street, Cambridge, 617.441.0400) is classic in construction…’
— topped with coarse san Marzano tomato sauce, basil leaves, and fresh mozzarella, then fast-baked in a hot wood-fired oven — and formidable in flavor. House-made pastas and other dishes show similar Campanian freshness and restraint, but pizza is what keeps the customers returning to this easy-to-miss trattoria in remote North Cambridge.
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